The issues of diet and health are very controversial in the bird world. We should first think about what parrots eat in the wild. Then, we have to keep in mind the bird's activity level, whether or not he's molting (shedding his feathers), or whether or not she may be laying eggs (some hens lay infertile eggs for no apparent reason). There are many different things on the market to feed your bird that may be marketed as a "total diet". How do you determine what's really best for your bird? Your first stop should be an avian veterinarian. This is a vet who has studied longer to specialize in birds and has passed an exam to become certified. Your vet should be able to recommend a diet for your parrot based on his species, health profile (based on tests), and his/her own experience. Most avian diseases are related to malnutrition and the number one cause of death in captive parrots is malnutrition. Research into proper parrot nutrition is one of the most important things you can do to take care of your captive bird.
For most parrots, I recommend a diet that is mostly fresh and cooked foods (about 70%), supplemented with pellets (20%) and seeds (10%). Always check with your avian vet, though, on issues of diet.
Typical Bird Diets:
- Pelleted diets: These are similar to rabbit pellets or dog kibble. There are many different brands on the market, many with artificial colors, flavors, and preservatives that can have a harmful effect on your bird's health. If choosing to feed pellets, choose one that is certified organic, with nothing artificial. These may cost more, but will most likely keep your bird healthy longer. Pellets are designed to try to provide all the nutrients parrots need to stay healthy, but they cannot provide enzymes and natural nutrients that whole foods provide. Many vets recommend pellets, but many bird guardians prefer to prepare fresh foods instead. I do not recommend a diet of 100% pellets. Lories and Lorikeets should never be fed pellets.
- Fresh foods: Many people feed fresh and cooked vegetables and fruits to their birds. Parrots are especially sensitive to Vitamin A deficiency, so it's important to feed foods with lots of vitamin A such as carrots, sweet potatoes, and papayas. Grains and legumes are also wonderful for birds. Plain oatmeal, cooked beans, whole wheat pasta, and grains like quinoa are very healthy. Many healthy human foods are also healthy for birds. Be sure to stay away from anything containing caffeine, sugar, salt, chocolate, avocado, alcohol, and any processed "junk foods". For the most part, if it's healthy for you, it's healthy for your bird. I do recommend a diet of mostly fresh foods.
- Seeds: Seeds used to be fed as a total diet, until people realized that most parrots do not eat that many seeds in the wild. Seeds do have some nutritional value, but they do not provide total nutrition, which is why they should not be fed as a total diet. Most birds relish seeds and, if given them often, will refuse to eat anything but seeds. Be sure to purchase a high-quality mix, and take care that this mix does not grow annoying flour moths, which often hatch out of seed mixes. You can freeze seeds, or at least keep them in an air-tight container. It is possible that certain species (ground feeders such as Cockatiels, Greys, and Cockatoos) do well with more seed in their diets than others. Other species, such as Amazons and Macaws, may suffer from obesity if allowed too much fat in their diet. This is still a very controversial topic, and should be discussed with your avian vet. I recommend that seeds play a small part in your bird's diet, depending on the species. Lories and Lorikeets should never be fed seeds.
- Cook and Serve Mixes: Many people purchase commercial food mixes made especially for parrots. These mixes are often mixed with water and cooked on the stovetop, and then served to your bird. You can make extra and freeze this in ice cube trays for future use. Or, you can be creative and make your own mixes. Some popular, home-cooked recipes use organic babyfood (with high vitamin A content like squash, carrots, etc.), canned pumpkin, yogurt, canned or fresh cooked beans, whole grain toast, etc. Experiment; there are many foods that you might think your bird won't eat, until you serve them a different way. A good way to feed a food that your bird doesn't like is to puree it and cook it into a mix. Pellets can also be ground up in a food processor and mixed into cooked foods. I do recommend cook and serve mixes.
Food is Messy!
Many people feed their parrots a combination of the above foods. Whatever diet you decide on, plan on spending LOTS of time cleaning it all up off the floor, the walls, and even yourself! Parrots are MESSY! It is in their genes to take a few small bites of everything in front of them, and then toss or throw the remaining food to the jungle floor, or your living room walls and floors. Expect to spend part of every day cleaning up after your bird. The paper on the bottom of your bird's cage should be changed every day. Old food and droppings left in the cage can cause your bird to become very ill and can even cause death if mold, fungus, or bacteria grows and is then ingested. If you are feeding seeds and/or pellets expect to vacuum daily around your bird's cage. Even the cages with "seed skirts" around them don't catch everything.
Make sure your bird is weaned!
One thing to be aware of is breeders and pet stores who will sell baby birds who are not yet weaned. Birds who are not eating on their own yet should NEVER be sold! Do not listen to a breeder or pet shop employee who tells you they will teach you, that it is easy, and that the bird will bond with you if you feed him. That's hogwash. In fact, there's a high likelihood that you will kill or injure your new chick if you attempt to handfeed him. It is simply too easy to make a mistake. You can choke your bird in a matter of minutes simply by holding the syringe at the wrong angle. You can burn a hole through the bird's chest by heating the formula too hot. You can give your bird a serious bacterial infection by storing the formula improperly. It's just too risky. Your bird will be safer staying with the hand-feeder until he's completely weaned. Be sure to ask an avian vet what age your particular species should be at when weaned. If you are adopting a bird, it's likely that you will not need to worry about weaning issues.
Your bird needs sleep!
Another important factor in your bird's health is the amount of sleep he gets. Birds live in areas of the world that are on or near the equator, meaning they get 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of darkness. Your bird should get 10-12 hours of quiet, uninterrupted rest a night. This doesn't mean it's ok to put the bird to "bed" while you continue to watch television in the same room for another 2 hours. If you must, get a smaller sleeping cage so you can move the bird to another quiet room to sleep. You will probably want to cover your bird's cage with a blanket or cage cover to block out the light. This will help him rest longer. Your bird will nap on and off throughout the day, but your bird will still be somewhat alert during a daytime nap. Remember, in the wild, sleeping during the day means that a predator could sneak up on him and have him for dinner!
Your bird needs natural light!
Don't forget full spectrum lighting! Parrots need full spectrum light in order to properly absorb nutrients from their foods such as calcium. You can provide full spectrum light by either allowing your bird access to unfiltered sunlight (meaning not filtered through glass) or by purchasing a full spectrum lighting system. If you bring your bird outdoors, be sure he is safely contained in a carrier or cage, and do not leave him unattended outside. The chance of a curious cat, racoon, or hawk noticing an unattended captive bird outside is too great. To provide full spectrum lighting indoors, you can buy a full spectrum bulb, which can run $15-$40. You can also buy a rectangular lighting system that can be attached to a wall and holds a full spectrum flourescent bulb. These bulbs are also fairly inexpensive.
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